Hafele 56” Taller Metal Table Legs offer do it yourselfers an option for creating table legs in the exact height they require. At first glance a 56” table leg seems ridiculously oversized unless you’re Yao Ming or Leonid Stadnyk. Look them up if you don’t know who on Earth I’m talking about. While the table legs could conceivably be used at their full height for extremely tall people, the primary intention for the Hafele Taller Metal Table Legs is for the do it yourselfer who wants to create their own table leg. The average person—even a do it yourselfer—does not have access to a smelting plant or a metal forming operation to actually create their own table leg. The next best thing would be the Hafele Taller Metal Table Legs. These table legs can be cut to the size needed with a hacksaw pretty easily. Let’s say for instance that you require table legs for a dining room table you’re building; but, you want the legs to be exactly 31-9/16”. Why do you need the legs to be this exact height? I have no idea; this is a hypothetical scenario after all. Anyway, your search for 31-9/16” table legs is fruitless. Then you encounter the Hafele 56” Taller Metal Table Legs. You think this is the absolute last leg you need since they are so large. Then you remember this brilliant blog you read about the Hafele 56” Taller Metal Table Legs and how they can be cut to size. You buy them, measure them, and hack the bejabbers out of them to get your 31-9/16” table legs. Voila! You didn’t have to settle for shorter table legs or use risers under the table to get the exact height you wanted. That’s the beauty of the Hafele 56” taller metal table legs.
Now what if you need a rolling table leg that is exactly 31-9/16” tall including the casters at the bottom? Then you’re screwed! Just kidding. Would I really do that to you? Actually, the Hafele 56” Taller Metal Table Legs can also be used with casters for a rolling table leg application. The modular design of the Hafele 56” Taller Metal Table Legs not only makes them optimal for modification, but also for adding on third party accessories such as casters, levelers, or floor mounted plates for installation on a boat. The Hafele 56” Taller Metal Table Legs are a versatile workhorse that will be a great addition to your workshop.
Table legs are not only available in sets of 4; several models are available individually when an odd number of table legs or a single table leg is needed. How many times have you called a company looking for table legs and were told that they are only available in sets of 4? If you’ve never attempted to buy single table legs before and are only reading this blog for informational purposes, then I guess I have my answer. For the rest of you, I’m sure it has been many times. Single table legs are not very common primarily because most tables use four table legs and packaging them together in a set will save you money; but, buying two sets of table legs when you only need five is the opposite of saving money. In such instances, some manufacturers have wisely made their table legs available in sets and individually. This really will save you money and will also save you the aggravation of having extra table legs that you don’t need taking up space in your home or office.
Aside from standard table legs that are available individually, there are also peninsula table legs that are available as single table legs. These table legs are only available individually because they are meant to support the peninsula (overhang) of a counter, island, or conference table with extension. Also, large conference table legs such as disc bases and H Bases are available individually. Conference tables will usually only require between 1 and 3 of these large table bases and selling them as a set of 4 or more would be absolutely mad. However, if you have a ginormous conference table (ginormous is a word…look it up) you can always use 4 or more conference table legs if required.
Power Data Modules with Active USB connectors capable of charging electronic devices are becoming more common than even a year ago. For several years, our computers and laptops have been built standard with Active USB connectors—connectors capable of charging portable devices with a USB cable. The feature slowly trickled to power data modules (very slowly); but, as of 2013 the active USB connector is now available or standard on nearly all power data modules. What’s the big deal about active USB you may ask? Well, unless you’ve been living under a rock, you’re aware that USB connectors were initially only capable of data transfer with very little power capability. This limited capability was also the norm in power data modules. With the onset of active USB, not only could the connectors transfer data, but they could also power or charge devices. Now with active USB connectors available for conference/workstation table mounted, desktop mounted, and freestanding power data modules, users have access to charging for their phones, music players, and other portable devices anywhere they go. No more having to bring your USB cable and your power cord for you devices. Just bring your USB cable and you’re set.
Active USB connectors are not required in units where it is not standard. If you have a strong, irrational aversion to active USB connectors, you can still opt for passive USB connectors in your power data module. Keep in mind that it is best to future proof your power data modules (really anything for that matter) to save on the cost of upgrading in the future. Future upgrading of connectors could entail replacing a telecom plate or replacing the entire unit. Who knows what the future holds; however, it is best to err on the side of caution and make active USB connectors your go to for power data modules.
Power data boxes are fabricated in many form factors, not all of which are boxes. Often when customers are searching for a power data box, they believe they are restricted to a box shaped form factor that will drop into a cut out in the center of their table. While this is one of the options available for a power data box, there are quite a few other options. Let’s take a trip through the land of power data boxes. Keep all hands and feet inside the coach at all times.
• Desktop Power Data Box: The desktop power data box is what most customers imagine when they begin their journey for a power data box for their desk or conference table. The desktop power data box requires a cut out in the table top where the power data box will be inserted. A lid on the power data box conceals the power receptacles, data connectors, and any cables that are feeding from the user’s laptop or computer into the desktop power data box. This power data box type is available with 2, 4, or 8 power receptacles.
• Under Desk Power Data Box: The under desk power data box requires a cut out in the table just like the desktop power data box, but the under desk power data box mounts under the desk. I would’ve told you how easy this stuff is in the beginning, but you wouldn’t have believed me. That is literally the difference between the two. And the under desk power data box does not include a lid; but, one is available as an option. Some under desk power data boxes can also be installed in the apron of a desk or conference table.
• Table Trough Power Data Box: Table troughs are much larger power data boxes meant for large conference or training tables. Each can accommodate from 6 to 12 users. They mount in a cut out much like the desktop power data boxes; you’ll just need a much larger cut out in most cases.
• Pop Up/Flip Up Power Data Box: I won’t insult your intelligence by telling you how these operate. Ok, I will. These power data boxes either flip up to expose the power receptacles and data connectors or pop up (either manually or mechanically) to expose the power receptacles and data connectors. Pop up power data boxes are unique in that the remaining piece of wood from your table top cut out can be installed on top of the power data box.
One last type that really doesn’t need its own category is the freestanding power data box. Suffice it to say this power data box type does not require a table top cut out. It stands freely on the table top or on the floor for larger units. So that’s power data boxes in a nutshell. I could’ve just said they’re not all box shaped, but I tend to be a bit wordy. Happy trails.
How to install a wood table leg/furniture leg is not very different from installing a metal table leg/furniture leg. The primary difference in many cases is that the wood table leg/furniture leg will not be pre-drilled for installation on a mounting plate or threaded bolt. This is not always the case, but does occur frequently. This gives you more freedom for how to install a wood table leg/furniture leg on a mounting plate or threaded bolt of non-standard size. If you have experience in woodworking and feel comfortable drilling your own hole in the wood table leg/furniture leg, I say go ahead as this will save you time and money. If your only experience with woodworking is assembling an IKEA bookcase (and even that didn’t go well) I say save yourself missing fingers and a trip to the hospital and contact a reputable carpenter or other experienced woodworker in your area. For such a small task, I’m sure the carpenter would appreciate if you brought the wood table legs or furniture legs to their shop rather than having them make a trip to your home. You’ll also save some money not having to pay for a home visit.
If your wood table leg/furniture leg will be installed on furniture that does not already have its own mounting plate or threaded bolt for installation, I would recommend going with an M10 thread. This is the standard bolt size for table legs/furniture legs and will save you a headache in the future if you decide to switch to metal table legs/furniture legs or swap out wood table legs/furniture legs. Now that your hole is drilled in the wood table legs/furniture legs and you have your M10 (or other size) mounting plate or threaded bolt, you can continue with your installation. Screw your mounting plate or threaded bolt to the underside of your table or other furniture. I’m sure I didn’t have to tell you to flip your furniture upside down to make this easier. If you’re just now flipping your furniture over, no problem (I didn’t see a thing). Continuing with your installation we reach the last step where you will screw your table legs/furniture legs onto their respective mounting plates or threaded bolts. Make sure the table legs/furniture legs are secure, but do not over tighten them. You don’t want the wood to split. Your table leg/furniture leg installation is now complete. I don’t have to tell you this, but for the sake of my own conscience I’ll advise you to now flip your furniture over onto its new legs before using it. Using your furniture upside down negates all the hard work you put into installing your table legs/furniture legs. I’ll end these installation instructions the same way Pop Tarts instructions are written. Cool briefly before handling. I know it doesn’t make sense, but I don’t care. It’s Christmas. If you’re reading this in April, this really makes no sense. Why am I still writing this? Enjoy your new legs. Cool briefly.
Installing table legs on wood, laminate, and granite table tops is not much more difficult than installing table legs on glass tops; but, there will be a few additional steps. If you recall, we covered how to install table legs on glass table tops in a previous blog post. Installation of table legs on wood, laminate, and granite table tops will be nothing like that so hunker down and take notes. If you have table legs already that you are preparing to install on an existing top, please read through these instructions before starting your installation.
1. Position your mounting bracket a minimum of 1” from the corner edge of your table top. For “bunny ear” or “D Shaped” mounting brackets, the rounded edge should be positioned toward the corner of the top.
2. (If installing legs on wood or laminate tops, skip to step 4.) Use a pencil to mark the screw holes where you will drill into your table top. Remove the mounting brackets.
3. Drill your screw holes at the locations you previously marked. Replace the mounting plate over your drilled holes.
4. With a power screwdriver (or manual if you want a workout) affix the screws to the mounting plate.
5. Once your mounting plate has been secured, install your leg on the mounting plate.
6. Repeat steps 1 – 5 for your remaining legs.
Before standing your table top on its new legs, make sure that all screws on the mounting plate are securely tightened and the leg is secure to the mounting plate. Different manufacturers may offer different options for securing the table leg to the mounting plate. Make sure you follow their directions explicitly to avoid a catastrophe later. A table collapsing on your legs is not an enjoyable experience.
Sedona Furniture Legs by Camar are attractive, strong furniture legs that complement varied furniture styles and provide ample support for seating. Remember when I told you in the Como Furniture Leg blog that the Sedona Furniture Legs are its prettier cousins? You haven’t read it? Go read it now. I’ll wait. This is a blog for Pete’s sake; where am I gonna go? Good, you’re back. Now as I was saying, Sedona Furniture Legs are the prettier cousins of the Como. When the look of your furniture leg is top priority (and you’re not trying to support elephants) then the Sedona Furniture Legs are what you need. The Sedona Furniture Legs come in 8 striking styles. I defy you to not like any of them. Strong words, but I stand by them. All of the legs come in an Aluminum Matte Finish and you can choose either a 4” or 6” height. Or choose both heights. I’m not here to judge.
While the Sedona Furniture Legs may not have the awesome weight capacity of their cousin Como, they still support a very respectable 200 lbs. per leg. Four of these legs on your sofa would easily support Aunt Bertha and Uncle Roscoe when they come over for the holidays. You don’t want them breaking another set of sofa legs. Even your snooty cousin will think the Sedona Furniture Legs are very chic (though she’ll inevitably question your judgment on the sofa). Were you wondering how the Sedona Furniture Legs will install on your furniture? I’m glad you asked because Camar has done a beautiful thing. Not only will you receive a square mounting plate with each leg, you will also receive an M10 threaded stem that can screw into your sofa in the same location as the furniture legs that Aunt Bertha and Uncle Roscoe broke. The Sedona Legs won’t succumb to their awesome poundage nearly as easily as those other furniture legs. No offense to Aunt Bertha and Uncle Roscoe.